To Sabi Sands and Elephant Afternoon

Our charter flight on Federal Air was a little confusing to find at JNB but once we were on the right path, it was a very nice way to travel. With approximately 1.5 staff people for each passenger this outfit knows how to get a luxury safari off on the right foot. We shared our little Raytheon turboprop with six other safari-goers on their way to various lodges in Sabi Sands. Our airstrip was the first stop and we soon found ourselves in a safari vehicle bouncing across dusty paths on our way to the Exeter River Lodge.

On that drive we came across Matt’s first big five sighting, a pair of white rhinoceros. Yeah, we weren't even to the lodge yet and were 1/5 of the way done! Much to safari-veteran Lisa’s surprise the driver jerked the wheel to the left and bounced over small trees and vegetation to get a better look at the animals. In Sabi Sands, a private reserve, the vehicle paths are apparently merely suggestions. The vehicles go to the game wherever they may be.
At the lodge we were greeted warmly, introduced to our ranger Craig, tracker Chris and butler Christopher and told to go relax until lunch at 2:30. We happily obliged. Lounging on our lodge’s deck overlooking the Sand river we were thrilled when an elephant appeared for a drink.
We were elated when a couple more showed up for same.
We were awestruck a little while later when a 10 or 11 elephants showed up.
We stared in wonder and amazement when an entire large herd of over 50 elephants including many baby elephants showed up and proceeded to eat and frolic and eat and drink and eat and have minor dominance skirmishes and eat and throw mud and eat. This show lasted through lunch and into the afternoon tea. It was simply incredible to behold. And more incredible still, Matt was up to two of the big five without even going on a game ride. It would have been an embarrassment of riches if we were the type to get embarrassed about riches. ;)

FCT and Jo'Burg

Back at FRA we experienced the Lufthansa First Class Terminal, an entire terminal dedicated to passengers flying on Lufthansa international first class. This experience now comes with the Lisa and Matt five-star seal of approval. If traveling was always like this then we’d have to insist on flying every day. More birthday toasts were made over rose champagne, a white tablecloth dinner and after dinner top-shelf whisky (think blue label) and scotch (think 18-year) followed by Matt’s favorite thing ever: a chauffeured Mercedes across the tarmac directly to the airplane. Lisa didn’t notice, but Matt insists he saw other passengers on the plane looking down at us through the airplane windows with faces full of abject envy on as we were whisked out of the limo and up an elevator directly onto the jet bridge.
The flight to Johannesburg is another overnight flight and this time we were bound and determined to actually sleep. And after more caviar and some delicious goose with potato we actually did manage to squeeze in six or so hours of sleep on that 9.5 hour flight. Unfortunately that also meant it was dark over Africa and we missed seeing the Sahara, the jungle and the Kalahari from our airplane window.
We were met by a driver at the airport and taken to the Hyatt Regency Johannesburg. After checking in we wandered over to the Rose Bank mall to find our bearings as well as an ATM to load up on Rand and a snack to load up our bellies.
We had arranged for a tour of Soweto and although the guide arrived late we did manage to spend the balance of the day exploring both the geography of Johannesburg but also the history of South Africa, including of course seeing the preparations so far for World Cup 2010.

Exhausted as we were, we were still dumbstruck by the absolute stupidity that men impose on their fellow man when reason and decency fails them. It’s the sort of experience that is so complex and thought provoking: one struggles to grasp the mindset that leads to formal policies of separation and subjugation and yet throughout the history of mankind it has always been thus.

And, upon closer examination, despite the reality of a black man occupying the Oval Office, the United States still has a long way to go before we are beyond the less formal and yet no less institutionalized policy of separation and subjugation. In engaging our guide on this question Matt asserted that perhaps class and income were more important than race in defining who lived where in America. The guide had a two word reply that shut Matt right the heck up: Ward 8. He asserted that for all of America's grand talk and gestures, Hurricane Katrina demonstrated to many Africans the reality of race in America, ie, we’ve got a long way to go.

That issue discussed we moved on to the FAR more important issue of where Rob and Amber won a Fast Forward during their season on The Amazing Race! :)

Thoroughly spent from the long flights and deep thinking, we nevertheless promised ourselves we’d stay up until AT LEAST…oh, 7pm in order to beat the jet lag. So we enjoyed dinner al fresco at a joint called Europa and had giggle fits as we fought sleep. But eventually sleep won and we went to sleep WAY too early. And paid for it in the sleepless middle of the night. On the other hand, we were easily up in time for our flight to Sabi Sands. So we had that going for us.

South Africa 2009 (written by Matt)

The odyssey began as all decent odysseys should: with champagne at an airline lounge. In this case the newish Lufthansa Senator Lounge at Dulles. We toasted Matt’s birthday for the first, second, third and fourth time (on our way to infinity, it appears) as we passed the time with German pretzels and cheese.
Before too long we boarded our flight to Frankfurt. On Lufthansa 747-400s the first class section is on the upper deck. This leads to a far more intimate feel than some other airlines, but we did comment that we felt right at home after all the time we’ve spent on United Airlines 747 upper decks in business class. The FC seats on Lufthansa are infinitely superior to other airlines that utilize ‘suites’ for First Class seats in that passengers traveling together can actually converse while sitting up…AND while reclined. The IFE was just so-so, but a few rounds of interactive Who Wants to be a Millionaire did distract us for a time, as did a weepy weep-fest called The Time Travelers Wife. The only question was who was weeping more when the credits rolled. Of course, the caviar starter was excellent as were the mains and the service, contrary to many stories we’ve heard, was warm and friendly in addition to being efficient and pampering.
Arrival in Frankfurt was smooth. There was a bit of a wait for the free shuttle to the Kempinski for our day room that was included with the Lufthansa FC ticket since there was a 12-hour layover. But it being Matt’s birthday we took it in (exhausted) stride. The Kempinski is a very, very nice hotel in the forest outside of Frankfurt with, supposedly, some nice walking trails. But German weather conspired against us, and instead of taking a leisurely stroll through the freezing mud we decided to spend the day ignoring the time zone change and then celebrating Matt’s actual birth day (as opposed to his birthday week) by mostly sleeping.

Our Next Adventure

(co-written by Matt and Lisa)

Okay, so will I really blog from Russia?! I guess we all know the answer to that question.

In the off chance that I have fallen completely out of touch with you for the last six months, Matt and I had a wonderful time exploring Moscow and St. Petersburg, and emerged from the trip realizing that perhaps we had potential as more than friends. So….we’ve spent the last six months dating and traveling (to Seattle and Hershey and Houston and Heidelberg and Cologne and Vegas and St. Maarten and Vegas and Seattle again).

But next week we are off on a blog-worthy adventure: South Africa for Matt’s 40th birthday. Of course, it’s a bit of a redo for me from last year but this time we’re doing a luxury safari in South Africa - no need to revisit Zimbabwe. From Kruger National Park we will move on to Cape Town, where we’ll try out the famous Cape Grace Hotel in the V&A Harbor. We have tickets to Robben Island, which I missed last year as it was undergoing repairs. Thus, in addition to this being all about Matt’s first African adventure, the trip will be an upgraded South Africa 2.0 for me as well.

As usual, getting there should be half the fun. And thanks to Matt’s tenacity and perseverance in working the ANA award booking tool we were able to score two first class award tickets on Lufthansa IAD-FRA-JNB. That first class ticket includes a day room at the Kempinski hotel near Frankfurt airport since our flight arrives in the morning and departs in the evening. We’ll also both get to experience the legendary Lufthansa First Class Terminal http://www.lufthansa.com/online/portal/lh/de/info_and_services/at_the_airport?nodeid=1771144&l=en&cid=18002&blt_p=DE&blt_l=en&blt_t=Info_and_Services%3eAt_the_Airport&blt_e=Content&blt_n=First%20Class%20Terminal&blt_z=More%20information&blt_c=DE%7Cen%7CInfo_and_Services%3EAt_the_Airport%7CContent%7CFirst%20Class%20Terminal%7CMore%20information at Frankfurt airport for the first time, where international first class customers have an entire terminal dedicated to pampering them. The pampering includes a personal assistant and transfer to one’s aircraft via Mercedes or Porsche sedan. Our transfer day will be Matt’s actual birthday and he could not be more thrilled about how we plan on spending it.

Then we head down to Johannesburg for a day exploring South Africa’s amazingly sad history or apartheid. The next morning it’s a charter flight up to Sabi Sands, a private game reserve adjacent to Kruger National Park where we’ll spend 3 nights at the Exeter River Lodge http://www.andbeyondafrica.com/luxury_safari/south_africa/sabi_sand_game_reserve/and_beyond_exeter_river enjoying game drives and some very serious relaxation.

After that we charter back to JNB and then down to Cape Town. As a birthday present to Matt I’ve booked us into the Cape Grace hotel for our time there. I plan on showing him the sights, including Table Mountain. And of course, wandering the city and finding all the fun that we always seem to find while traveling.

We’ll return through JNB and FRA back to IAD, again in LH first class so that the journey home continues to be a big part of the vacation.

All in all, a pretty exciting way to share Matt’s 40th birthday with him. We leave on Sunday. We’ve gotten our shots, started our malaria meds, bought our safari gear and are counting the hours to lift off! Matt says he’ll help me keep the blog up to date this trip so hopefully I (we) will do a better job of it this time!

Here’s the itinerary: